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Kathmandu Durbar Square
A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Kathmandu is the capital and largest city of a country in transition. Nepal, which was until recently the world’s only Hindu kingdom, has now become a federal democratic republic after a ten-year civil battle initiated by the Maoists–whose party was voted into power in 2008. The capital city reflects this political turning point: it is a blend of old and new, of beauty and squalor, of hope and acceptance. Carved windows, ancient sculpted monuments, temples and shrines are to be discovered around every corner. Cows and bulls ruminate in the sun, merchants and rickshaws vie for the traveler’s attention, and the Nepalis’ legendary hospitality is a welcome respite from the hustle bustle of the crowds and traffic.

In Thamel, the main tourist quarter, visitors discover an amazing variety of cafés, night spots and shops. Raw silk of every color, Nepalese artifacts, carpets, jewelry: you name it, downtown Kathmandu has got it, from an astounding selection of ersatz chic to absolute treasures. The same goes for eateries–from corner momo (dumpling) stands to fine, creative establishments, Kathmandu has it all.

Beyond shopping and dining, Kathmandu’s Durbar Square beckons, chock full of beauty and life. Among the monuments one can see the Kumari Ghar, the residence of the Living Goddess and maybe even catch a glimpse of the Royal Kumari herself. The Kumari is a pre-pubescent girl of the Newari Shakya caste–the same clan as Buddha Shakyamuni’s–who is chosen according to specific signs–perfect teeth, fearlessness, a melodious voice, legs like an antelope’s, etc., which indicate that she is the physical vessel for the goddess Taleju, who inhabits her body until she reaches puberty. From then on, she receives a pension amounting to approximately $80 a month–twice the official minimum wage.

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